Happy Anniversary to us!

I remember the phone call well. It went something like, "Hey, Mom & Dad, you know how you've always wanted to go live in Ireland for a few months? Well, you'll have to visit me in Dublin, because we're MOVING there! Oh, and... you know how you're coming to visit for St. Patrick's Day weekend? We're getting MARRIED on that Saturday!" 

It's hard to believe it's been a year since I dropped that bombshell. It feels like it was just yesterday that our families traveled from near and far to convene in a tiny room in Chicago City Hall and watch us promise our lives to one another. I still remember the butterflies I felt in that little room, the tears of joy that sprung to my eyes (and his :) ), and the surrounding smiles of our loved ones. Someone up there was smiling down on us that day too, gifting us with a gorgeous rarity in March - 80 degrees and sunshine. It was simply the perfect day.

If you don't know the story already, we started packing up our apartment the day after we got married. 2 days later, we drove a U-Haul to Ohio to put our things in storage, returned to Chi town for a final going away party and offensive celebratory "Irish car bombs" shots, and moved to Ireland a week later! 

Our time as newlyweds has flown! I recall mentioning to B that we passed the 72-day mark and had beaten Kim Kardashian (which he was obviously thrilled about). Then we hit the 6 month mark. Before I knew it, St. Patrick's Day came again and we were toasting our 1 year anniversary.

And what an amazing first year of marriage it has been. Full of highs, lows, world travels, and cozy nights by the fire. We've taken countless "trips of a lifetime" and have added incredible memories to an already long list. It hasn't always been the easiest year (very different than I'd ever imagined), but I wouldn't trade it for anything!

Funny to think how hesitant I was to tell everyone we were getting married. I worried that people would judge our "shotgun" wedding of sorts, that it wouldn't be as "special" because it wasn't what I had envisioned for us. 

Well, I couldn't have been more wrong. Our family and friends were and have continued to be nothing but supportive. Not only do I think our story is more special now, but I want to shout it from the rooftops how happy and proud I am to call B my husband. I truly feel like I'm married to my best friend and biggest fan.

So, here's to our 1 year anniversary and many more to come!

And... of course, the best part is we get to do it all over again in July :) 

Biarritz

After 5 wonderful days in San Sebastián, I took a couple trains back across the border to another beautiful surf town in Basque country for a couple days... Biarritz, France. Once a popular holiday destination for Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, and Russian Aristocrats, Biarritz is now known for its beaches and surfing.

I arrived in town late afternoon, just in time to shower, relax for a bit, then head out for the evening. I lucked out once again with Airbnb, staying at a lovely little home called Maison Pia. My host, Marion was incredibly welcoming and drove me around the town the first night, showed me the must-sees and took me to a great little tapas bar overlooking the coast. She even pointed out a scenic running route and a place to swim in the nude if I so pleased, ha! So French! We capped the night chatting over local wine/cheeses/fruit in her garden... The perfect start to my trip.

Good food and view at Kostaldea

The next morning, I skipped the skinny dipping, but took Marion's advice on the running route and set out for a sunrise run along the coast, with my camera in hand! I looked a little silly, but it was worth it for the pics and I was able to get some of my sightseeing done too (i.e. La Grande Plage, Villa Belza, Rocher de la Vierge/Rock of the Virgin).

La Grande Plage - town's largest beach

Villa Belza

After my run, I walked over to Les Halles, the local market, bought a fresh chocolate croissant (when in France, right?), had an espresso, and meandered through the isles, taking in the sights and scents of fresh baguettes, cheeses, fish/meats, flowers, and produce. I could spend hours in a good European market! 

Next, I set out to explore the city more. I checked out the other sites to see: Plage Miramar, Eugenie Palace (now Hôtel du Palais), Phare de Biarritz (lighthouse), Ass Cultuelle Orthodoxe Russe (Russian Orthodox church - below on the right). Biarritz is small, so I was able to tackle the sites in half a day and laze on the beach in the afternoon.

View of Plage Miramar from Pointe Saint-Martin

Hôtel du Palais

Phare de Biarritz

After washing away the sand, I spent the final evening of my solo trip at Port Vieux, the casual harbor area of town. Here I enjoyed a local dish of grilled squid at Casa Juan Pedro and chatted with fellow travelers from South Africa.

My final day, I spent my dwindling hours of sunshine on the beach before returning to a rainy Dublin. As I'm writing this now and looking out my window at snow flurries (in March in Ireland!), I'm reliving my experience and realize even more how incredible it was. Not to toot my own horn, but I'm proud of myself for pulling the trigger on a solo trip. Who knows if or when I'll be able to do it again, but it's one I'll never forget :) Cheers, SS & Biarritz!

San Sebastián

As I said in my last post, I made a spur of the moment decision to book a solo trip to a warm destination. I landed on San Sebastián (or Donostia to the locals) for a few reasons: 1) The RyanAir flight to nearby Biarritz, France was cheap, 2) It's a gorgeous beach town, and 3) SS was a place I've never heard about until living in Europe, but I've heard nothing but glowing recommendations since being here from foodies and surfers alike. Some call it the world's best food city, as it is home to a number of Michelin star restaurants, as well as world-renowned bar snacks called pintxos.

After flying into Biarritz and taking the train to SS, I arrived in the late afternoon, got settled and acquainted with my Airbnb host.... who did not speak a word of English. Talk about a crash review of my college Minor Spanish! 5 years of not speaking the language meant I had to shake off some serious rust. I was able to do that immediately when my host, Ana, invited me to get Chocolate y Churros (very rich, but yummy!) with her and her cousin. Afterwards we strolled around the city at dusk and Ana pointed out places for me to check out in the coming days.

The next morning, I awoke bright and early, went on a run along La Playa de la Concha at sunrise, then got cleaned up, shared a coffee with Ana, and set out for a day of sightseeing. I hiked up to the top of Monte Urgull to see Castillo de La Mota and Cristo de la Mota, a 12th century castle and statue of Christ atop the hill. From here, you also get panoramic views of the city and the bay, Bahía de la Concha.

Cristo de la Mota (same statue lit up on top of the hill in the first pic)

I also spent my fair share of time (the first day and every day!) wandering around La Parte Vieja, the old town area of SS. It's made up of narrow, pedestrian streets, filled with little Tabernas, or Pintxos bars. There are also a couple beautiful cathedrals, including one, Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Coro, that faces the gothic cathedral, Catedral del Buen Pastor in the more modern part of town (below).

Plaza de la Constitución

In the evening, I commenced what became my nightly routine: reading in Plaza de la Constitución over a glass of wine, then a traditional Pintxos Crawl, where you make your way from through various Pintxos bars, sampling wines and tasty morsels that are not only delicious, but super cheap! I'd follow this with a stroll along the boardwalk at sunset, and an early retreat for some conversation with my host and Skyping with family. Pretty much my idea of heaven.

PINTXOS... get in my belly!

The next day brought exploration of the other side of the bay, Monte Igueldo. I checked out Los Peines del Viento (wind combs), then hiked up to the top of the Mt. for one of the most breathtaking views I've ever seen. I spent the afternoon getting lost in the streets and watching surfers over at Zurriola Beach before retiring to Old Town.

Los Peines del Viento

View from Monte Igueldo... see what I mean?

SS is small, so after the first couple days, I had seen all the sites. I ventured out on a day trip to Hondarribia, Spain (a town on the border of Spain & France - I'll cover another time!), then spent the remaining days laying on the beach, reading, eating pintxos, and enjoying the ocean and the sunshine. Rough life! 

I enjoyed my time there so much that I extended my stay an extra day, but I still can't wait to go back some day with my husband and share in the amazing experience that is San Sebastián.

Next up, I spent a couple days in Biarritz...