Tuesday, March 5, 2013

San Sebastián

As I said in my last post, I made a spur of the moment decision to book a solo trip to a warm destination. I landed on San Sebastián (or Donostia to the locals) for a few reasons: 1) The RyanAir flight to nearby Biarritz, France was cheap, 2) It's a gorgeous beach town, and 3) SS was a place I've never heard about until living in Europe, but I've heard nothing but glowing recommendations since being here from foodies and surfers alike. Some call it the world's best food city, as it is home to a number of Michelin star restaurants, as well as world-renowned bar snacks called pintxos.




After flying into Biarritz and taking the train to SS, I arrived in the late afternoon, got settled and acquainted with my Airbnb host.... who did not speak a word of English. Talk about a crash review of my college Minor Spanish! 5 years of not speaking the language meant I had to shake off some serious rust. I was able to do that immediately when my host, Ana, invited me to get Chocolate y Churros (very rich, but yummy!) with her and her cousin. Afterwards we strolled around the city at dusk and Ana pointed out places for me to check out in the coming days.




The next morning, I awoke bright and early, went on a run along La Playa de la Concha at sunrise, then got cleaned up, shared a coffee with Ana, and set out for a day of sightseeing. I hiked up to the top of Monte Urgull to see Castillo de La Mota and Cristo de la Mota, a 12th century castle and statue of Christ atop the hill. From here, you also get panoramic views of the city and the bay, Bahía de la Concha.


Cristo de la Mota (same statue lit up on top of the hill in the first pic)


I also spent my fair share of time (the first day and every day!) wandering around La Parte Vieja, the old town area of SS. It's made up of narrow, pedestrian streets, filled with little Tabernas, or Pintxos bars. There are also a couple beautiful cathedrals, including one, Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Coro, that faces the gothic cathedral, Catedral del Buen Pastor in the more modern part of town (below).





Plaza de la Constitución


In the evening, I commenced what became my nightly routine: reading in Plaza de la Constitución over a glass of wine, then a traditional Pintxos Crawl, where you make your way from through various Pintxos bars, sampling wines and tasty morsels that are not only delicious, but super cheap! I'd follow this with a stroll along the boardwalk at sunset, and an early retreat for some conversation with my host and Skyping with family. Pretty much my idea of heaven.


PINTXOS... get in my belly!


The next day brought exploration of the other side of the bay, Monte Igueldo. I checked out Los Peines del Viento (wind combs), then hiked up to the top of the Mt. for one of the most breathtaking views I've ever seen. I spent the afternoon getting lost in the streets and watching surfers over at Zurriola Beach before retiring to Old Town.


Los Peines del Viento
View from Monte Igueldo... see what I mean?


SS is small, so after the first couple days, I had seen all the sites. I ventured out on a day trip to Hondarribia, Spain (a town on the border of Spain & France - I'll cover another time!), then spent the remaining days laying on the beach, reading, eating pintxos, and enjoying the ocean and the sunshine. Rough life! 






I enjoyed my time there so much that I extended my stay an extra day, but I still can't wait to go back some day with my husband and share in the amazing experience that is San Sebastián.

Next up, I spent a couple days in Biarritz...


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