Biarritz

After 5 wonderful days in San Sebastián, I took a couple trains back across the border to another beautiful surf town in Basque country for a couple days... Biarritz, France. Once a popular holiday destination for Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, and Russian Aristocrats, Biarritz is now known for its beaches and surfing.

I arrived in town late afternoon, just in time to shower, relax for a bit, then head out for the evening. I lucked out once again with Airbnb, staying at a lovely little home called Maison Pia. My host, Marion was incredibly welcoming and drove me around the town the first night, showed me the must-sees and took me to a great little tapas bar overlooking the coast. She even pointed out a scenic running route and a place to swim in the nude if I so pleased, ha! So French! We capped the night chatting over local wine/cheeses/fruit in her garden... The perfect start to my trip.

Good food and view at Kostaldea

The next morning, I skipped the skinny dipping, but took Marion's advice on the running route and set out for a sunrise run along the coast, with my camera in hand! I looked a little silly, but it was worth it for the pics and I was able to get some of my sightseeing done too (i.e. La Grande Plage, Villa Belza, Rocher de la Vierge/Rock of the Virgin).

La Grande Plage - town's largest beach

Villa Belza

After my run, I walked over to Les Halles, the local market, bought a fresh chocolate croissant (when in France, right?), had an espresso, and meandered through the isles, taking in the sights and scents of fresh baguettes, cheeses, fish/meats, flowers, and produce. I could spend hours in a good European market! 

Next, I set out to explore the city more. I checked out the other sites to see: Plage Miramar, Eugenie Palace (now Hôtel du Palais), Phare de Biarritz (lighthouse), Ass Cultuelle Orthodoxe Russe (Russian Orthodox church - below on the right). Biarritz is small, so I was able to tackle the sites in half a day and laze on the beach in the afternoon.

View of Plage Miramar from Pointe Saint-Martin

Hôtel du Palais

Phare de Biarritz

After washing away the sand, I spent the final evening of my solo trip at Port Vieux, the casual harbor area of town. Here I enjoyed a local dish of grilled squid at Casa Juan Pedro and chatted with fellow travelers from South Africa.

My final day, I spent my dwindling hours of sunshine on the beach before returning to a rainy Dublin. As I'm writing this now and looking out my window at snow flurries (in March in Ireland!), I'm reliving my experience and realize even more how incredible it was. Not to toot my own horn, but I'm proud of myself for pulling the trigger on a solo trip. Who knows if or when I'll be able to do it again, but it's one I'll never forget :) Cheers, SS & Biarritz!

Ridin' Solo

One of the things I mentioned I'd do differently with 9 months off again was travel more. I know what you're thinking. More? We've traveled so much already! However, if I had the time again, I'd take more solo trips, because... why not? Once I traveled by myself one time, I realised (just realized I typed the alternate spelling!) that I could do it. And not only that -- I really enjoyed it. It was liberating!

After 4 months of Irish weather, I got tired of waiting around in the rain for my permit and decided it was time to take a break from Dublin and the non-existent summer. So, I booked a spur of the moment trip to San Sebastián, Spain & Biarritz, France, a couple beach towns in Basque country, to recharge with some much needed sunshine.

Playa de la Concha - San Sebastián

I had never traveled alone before. Sure, I've taken flights around the U.S. on my own, but that's peanuts compared to a week-long solo trip in foreign countries where I don't speak the language. Needless to say, I was nervous about it (and chose not to mention it to my parents until I arrived, because I knew they would worry and make me more nervous!). What is great about traveling solo is that it forces you to get over these nerves and out of your comfort zone. You have only yourself to rely on for directions, what to do, etc.

My first day was an excellent ice breaker for the rest of the trip. I flew to Biarritz, France, then figured out the bus to take from the airport to the train station, booked a ticket to Hendaye (a little French town on the border of Spain), transferred to a separate train station, booked a ticket to San Sebastián, then walked about a mile with my little suitcase (pretty sure this is where it broke) to the Airbnb apartment I reserved, to stay with a woman who didn't speak a word of English. I definitely had trouble reading train and bus schedules (not to mention that trains in France are often not on time!), and stumbled through communication, awkwardly blurting out 2-word sentences like, "Train... Hendaye?" 

 Once you get over the hiccups and feeling uncomfortable, the rest is amazing. I had intermittent lonely moments where I missed my husband, felt silly taking even a few pics of myself, or wanted to share my experience with someone (at least the beauty of modern technology means being able to share pictures, FB updates, Skype, etc. to make you feel more connected). Otherwise, it's great being on your own schedule -- you do what you want, where you want, when you want. You have total control over your vacation.

View of San Sebastián from Monte Urgull

I brought a few great books and spent my days running on the beach at sunrise, exploring the towns, people watching at cafes, chatting with my hosts and interesting fellow travelers, practicing Spanish, strolling the boardwalks and lounging in the sunshine. Just writing all that makes me want to do it all over again!

Cidra & White Asparagus - Basque cuisine

Sitting in Spain, looking across the harbor at France (right)

Best book to bring with you on a solo trip!

Evening routine - watching sunset at Playa de la Concha

I would absolutely recommend to anyone to challenge yourself to "ride solo" on a trip if the opportunity presents itself. It's an unforgettable experience and you'll be proud of yourself for it. I'll write a separate post with tips for women traveling solo (being a young woman, I know I certainly did a little research before taking off on my own). Next up though: I'll post about the San Sebastián and Biarritz trips themselves... stay tuned!!